The Jewish Chronicle in London runs a nice travel article by Andy Mossack on the well-preserved Jewish heritage of Italy’s Emilia Romagna region, including Ferrara, which has just hosted its annual Jewish book festival.
It’s a treasure trove of Jewish history, and the cities of Bologna, Cento and Ferrara owe their very existence to their Jewish communities.
Ferrara is dominated by the huge Castello Estense, the 14th century home of the powerful Este dynasty, which included Lucretia Borgia and the medieval ramparts that circle the city are a pointer to its importance throughout the middle ages. Back then, the Po River literally lapped the streets of the city, and today, down by the via Delle Volte, you can still see the raised archways linking the ancient vaults and walk the narrow cobbled alleyways.
I take a stroll around the ghetto quarter, created in 1627 after the Este dynasty fell, and find it still pretty much intact, the remnants of two of the five gates sealing off the area after dark, still attached to the walls. Many of the restaurants here still have what is termed “Jewish food” on the menus (although not Kosher); Ferrarese burriche pastries, spelt soup and ricciolini pasta at Yom Kippur.
I wander down via Mazzini just off the main square next to the cathedral and find the old shul at number 95. Actually, there are three shuls here, but the other two are small museums these days.
Home page of the Jewish Museum in Bologna
See more about the annual Jewish book festival here
Even more about the Jewish book festival
Travel article by Judith Roumani about Jewish Ferrara